Saturday, March 7, 2009

The ridiculous pink fixie part 4, pedals, brake lever, wheels, chain, etc. and finishing the build.

So, once you've got the crank on, it's time to install the pedals.

One most bikes, the left pedal is reverse threaded, so when you install the pedals, remember to screw the threads on the pedals toward the front of the bike, and remember that you have left and right pedals.

(This is important, because your pedal threads are usually steel, and your crank is usually aluminum, and screwing your pedals in the wrong way, or screwing in a pedal on the wrong side can ruin the threads on that crank, which can mean a trip to the bike shop to have the threads re-tapped, or worse, to buy a new crank.)



I got these pedals at L.A. Bicycles on Hoover down by USC for a pretty decent deal (Origin 8 pedals and riser bars and a cog and lockring for $60), but while I was installing them, I noticed something funny:



(Apparently Origin 8's a subsidiary of/supplied by Wellgo. Who knew? They're pretty decent pedals though.)

Once the pedals were on, it was time to install the wheels.

I got the wheels from Bell's Bike Shop in Philadelphia, and Steve, the owner, is a really good guy.



The wheel's didn't even need truing, which was awesome. They were a little more scratched than I'd expected, so I sent him a couple of pics, and he apologized, and said they should never have been sent, and offered a brand new replacement set, or a discount for the set I got. I asked him for a set of Space Straps instead, and he agreed and I should have them in my PO Box.

So if you're looking for a good set of wheels, well-built, at a great price, from a place that offers great customer service, I recommend Bell's Bike Shop

Since the wheels were true, all I had to do was install the cog and lock ring,



put the rim strip on, install the tires, tubes, and Mr. Tuffy Wheel Liners, add air, and the wheels were good to go.

Then it was time for handlebars and the brake lever. (When installing handlebars, make sure you use bar end caps, as otherwise you can really injure yourself if you fall. The term "core sample" is often used.)

I got a snazzy Goldfinger brake lever, which unfortunately was not well sized for my handlebars, but some less than snazzy used inner tube made a nice shim.



Then it was time to cut a length of brake cable housing, put ferrules on each end, and set it in place.



Then run the new brake cable, and make sure to properly align the brake pads against the machined surface.



(Move them up, in this case.)

Then adjust the brake cable to ensure a snug fit, trim the brake cable, add another ferrule to keep the cable from untangling, and you've got the brake installed.



(I only installed a front brake, as the front brake does 90% of the braking, and with a fixed gear, your legs can act as a rear brake. Having a front brake on a fixed gear is a really good idea, as you can stop more quickly with a brake. Also, chains can occasionally snap, so if the chain is your only brake, that can pose a problem.)

At this point, installing the chain was about the only thing left to do.



Trim the chain to size with the chain tool, add the master link (seen faintly on the stool) to lock everything in place, and that's pretty much it.

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